2014.9.3這天我離開待了近一年的歐洲，從希臘雅典，搭上土國廉航前往土耳其。希臘是進入歐亞邊界的國家，於是在這裡遇到的背包客，許多都是要往東邊繼續旅行的。我在希臘的Santorini和Athens的青旅，不斷地巧遇相同的背包客們，當我們在一地說再見後，又在下一個青旅相遇時，這些巧合讓人感到緣分的美好。
抵達SAW機場時，一邊祈禱著能順利取得行李（不要像上次到雅典時行李被遺失），一邊快步走到行李處。喜的是一下子就等到行李了，但是這回卻發現行李的把手，已經在運送的過程中被撞得粉碎了，原本已經有點破爛的行李箱，這下子變得更加破爛...
"沒關係，這小事，姊這趟旅行，什麼大風大浪沒見過"
"路還是要繼續走下去，畢竟土耳其的旅行才剛拉開序幕呢"
(低潮時總靠著莫名其妙的信念和自言自語支撐下去)
幾分鐘後，我決定硬著頭皮，使勁推著行李廂，搭上接駁巴士和船到Eminönü的青旅...
幾分鐘後，我決定硬著頭皮，使勁推著行李廂，搭上接駁巴士和船到Eminönü的青旅...
興建中的高樓大廈與古老的清真寺
在去Istanbul之前，我一直認為這是一個充滿歷史的文化古城，它確實是很美，但我沒想到它同時也非常的現代化。從saw機場到Istanbul市中心的途中，寬敞的柏油馬路兩旁是一棟棟的高樓大廈，在公車上打扮的整潔而氣質的婦女，穿著長裙，帶著色彩鮮豔的頭巾，帶著兩三歲的小女孩一起搭車，小女孩沒有包頭巾，露出可愛的棕色捲髮。
土耳其的男人們的穿著則是相當現代，就像在其他國家的男人那樣，短袖長褲，少數男人才會穿著傳統的長袍，相比之下，同為回教國家的Morocco在衣著上更為傳統，走在Marakkesh這種觀光大城，也會看見許多穿著長袍的男人們走來走去。
這種城市的感覺，使我想起Morocco的Casablanca。
Istanbul分為亞洲區和歐洲區，在Eminönü港口，可以搭船遊河，觀賞河兩岸的不同風景。 Istanbul有世界上相當古老的清真寺。那些壯麗的清真寺，美的令人難忘，因為回教中不可以立神像，因此他們將字的藝術大大發揮，清真寺內有許多引自可蘭經內文的句子，用在建築中，令人感受到回教徒對於阿拉的虔誠信仰。
我的土耳其朋友ｓ告訴我，其實Istanbul的清真寺都是在鄂圖曼土耳其帝國時才建立的，在這之前，回教徒只要有個安靜而乾淨的地方，知道麥加的方向和祈禱的時間，就可以進行每日的祈禱。在土耳其幾百個不同的清真寺，有的壯麗，有的簡約，其實都是相同的功能。
來到伊斯坦堡，一定要做的事情之一，就是戴上頭巾，進去參觀這些古老而神聖的清真寺，坐在美麗柔軟的地毯上，看著信徒們行禮敬拜阿拉：唯一的真神。外頭的光線透進來，照在行禮中的男人身上，他的小孩，天真無邪的在祈禱區跑來跑去，花型狀的燈泡從天而降，一層一層的發著光，相當華麗。
除了在清真寺內感受伊斯蘭的宗教文化之美外，我最喜歡做的事情，就是在路上閒晃到肚子有點餓時，和當地人一樣，坐在清真寺外的長椅，向麵包攤販買個芝麻麵包，再向路過的賣茶人，買杯熱騰騰的紅茶，然後要兩顆糖，丟進杯中輕輕攪拌，發出叮噹的清脆聲，然後，吹著微風啜飲著。
我坐在包著頭巾的女人們中間，和她們一同看著擦皮鞋的小販經過，手裡拿著一大串珠鍊的男人，嘴裡唸唸有詞地問有沒有人要買，瘦小的孩童仰著髒髒的臉龐沿街討錢，我靜靜看著一切，在腦中建構出我自己的伊斯坦堡，要不是路過的土耳其男人們，對我投以奇怪的關注眼光，我都要感覺我是在地人了。
土耳其的清真寺，好像台灣的廟宇那樣，具有多元功能。除了是讓信徒能專心祈禱的地方，也具備了民眾社交和購物的功能，因此在清真寺外會有許多市集和攤販，就像是台灣的廟口夜市那樣。（有些也具備教育功能）
中午時分，喚禱聲響起，站在街頭的我，四處張望，我在等待著巧遇著誰，張開小地毯，朝向麥加的方向祈禱，就像我在摩洛哥看到的那樣，可是，伊斯坦堡依舊那麼忙碌，車子來來往往，吵雜聲未歇，行人或商人依舊忙碌在自己的工作中。
回教徒真的每日要拜五次嗎？ 這個疑問當我第一次造訪回教國家時，就一直縈繞心中。而隨著我認識越多回教徒後，我才明白其實每個宗教都一樣，有人虔誠，有人還好。就像不是每個基督徒都常常上教堂，不是每個道教徒都知道何時該拜拜。在清真寺工作的志工告訴我，因為現代的工作型態，人們可以延遲祈禱的時間；我的朋友ｓ則告訴我，回教徒們可以用自己的方式去信仰自己的宗教。也因此，我會看見許多不同行為的回教徒，像是有的戴頭巾，有的選擇不戴，有的只戴頭巾，有的則是整個包起來，只露出眼睛和手。
這些彈性空間和寬容，使我修正了過往的刻板印象，一個新的回教文化漸漸在我腦中生成。
公園裡的晚餐
因為服用過敏的藥，所以遵從藥師的叮嚀，初來Istanbul的第一個星期，我必須飲食清淡，禁鹽糖蛋奶肉和柑橘類水果，因此滿街的土耳其美食，我只能看不能吃。
晚上時肚子餓壞了，忍不住去Eminönü旁的小販，買了水煮玉米坐在公園吃，也點了一杯熱茶。在歐洲吃慣了冷食，來到較東邊的土耳其，又開始出現熱食，頓時覺得燙口難以下嚥，只好笨拙地以指尖小心翼翼舉著紅茶杯，試圖吹涼。
坐在我旁邊的兩位大叔，好奇地看著我這個行為有點窮困的亞洲觀光客，便向我搭話聊了起來。原來他們是從Syria逃到土耳其的難民，因為要逃離戰爭，舉家遷移到伊斯坦堡，在這裡等戰爭結束再重返家鄉。
我們以簡單的英文有一搭沒一搭地聊著，大部分的時候，只是雞同鴨講。這個時刻，我突然覺得，要是我會說一點阿拉伯語的話該有多好呀...我拿出包包僅有的乾糧，請他們配茶吃，他們一開始客氣地拒絕了，但後來卻開心地吃起來，我們三人就這樣望著人潮洶湧的港口，看著接駁船載走舊人又帶來新人，而安靜的我們，像是在等待著不知道什麼會來臨的事物那樣。
關於戰爭和難民這些事情，在我後來的土耳其旅程中，一直不斷地出現在我腦海裡，這是我第一次感到和這塊異國土地的連結性。
（待續）
September 3 rd .2014
It was the day that I left Europe and went to Turkey after almost one year trip in Europe.I took the flight from Athens to Istanbul. And I found many backpackers choose the similar route like me. Because I met the same travelers when I stayed at the hostel in Santorini ,Athens and even Turkey. And I felt so happy to meet these friends again and again.
But when I just arrived at SAW airport in Istanbul, I found my suitcase was destroyed during the transport. This situation made me depressed for a while. However, I knew everything could happen during the backpacker adventure, no matter bad things or good things. As a result, I decided to take it easy and try my best to bring the worn suitcase to the hostel.
tall buildings and great mansions vs. old mosques
Before I visited Istanbul,in my imagination it is the very historic city. However, it is much modern than I think.
There are very international airports, lots of tall buildings and great mansions, convenient traffic and so on. In fact, it looks so similar like the Asian modern cities. But it also keeps the very historic part, such as the mosques, palace,and the way people live. For example, the costume. I saw many Turkish ladies wearing the long skirt and burka , and the men wears the tradition long clothes. But compared to Marrakesh in Morocco, most people in Istanbul wear in more modern way like the west.
Istanbul is a beautiful city that combines the old historic part and the modern part. And from Eminönü, tourists can join the ferry tour to see the both different parts of Istanbul.
One thing you must do in Istanbul is to visit the mosques here.
It is because there are very old mosques here, like Blue mosque. Visitors can wear burka, and sit in the beautiful and soft carpet watching people practice their religion.They use lots of Arabic writing to decorate inside without any idol. And the gorgeous light shaped like the flower hang on from the very high ceiling.
For me, the mosques in Istanbul are the great art.
The second thing I like to do in Istanbul is to take a rest like the local.
I like sitting on the bench in front of the mosque when I feel tired.
I will buy an ekmek (bread) from the vendors and one Çay (black tea) with two sugars from the tea sellers, and then enjoy my Turkish tea time.
I sat surrounded with women who wear burka. We observed the street together,such as the little beggars on the street, the jewelry sellers, and the men who ask if someone want to refresh their shoes.Sometimes I feel like the local if the men did not look at me in a strange sight.:P
Like the temple in Taiwan, mosques are not only the place for praying, but also for socializing and shopping.As a result, there are markets and vendors outside the mosques just like the night markets outside the temple.
The third thing is about the sound for reminding people it is the time for worship. At the beginning ,every time I heard that sound, I will stand on the street to search for if people is going to pray. I imagined that they open their carpet, and face to the direction of Mecca to pray. But in the end, I found people still live their lives. Sellers worked in their shops. Drivers sat on their cars. Istanbul did not became a quiet city, but still full of lots of noise.
Do the Muslim have to pray for 5 times a day? I started to be confused about this idea. However, after I met more Turkish friends, they shared with me about their lives, Muslim religion, and Turkish culture. Those information broke my stereotype I had before. And make me realize this city in a new way.
Dinner in the park
I was sick of allergic when I just arrived in Turkey. So I had to avoid sugar, salt, meat, milk, and so on. As a result, I almost ate nothing at that time. One night, I feel starved, so I went to the park to buy a corn and tea from the vendors. Two old men in the park started to talk to me. They are from Syria. Because of the war, they decided to escape from their home to the nearby country. They want to go back, but they have to wait for the end of the war.
I can not speak Arabic, so we communicated each other in simple English. Most of time, I can not understand what they said, just tried to guess. It was the first time that I felt the war is so close to me. Before I visited in Turkey, the words like war and refugees are distant concept for me. However, it turned to so true after the conversation with those people I met there.
I sat in the park with them. We looked at the ferry come and go to the Eminönü port together. Sometimes we talked, sometimes we just stayed quiet.
And it seems like we are waiting for the unknown future.
(to be continued...)
在去Istanbul之前，我一直認為這是一個充滿歷史的文化古城，它確實是很美，但我沒想到它同時也非常的現代化。從saw機場到Istanbul市中心的途中，寬敞的柏油馬路兩旁是一棟棟的高樓大廈，在公車上打扮的整潔而氣質的婦女，穿著長裙，帶著色彩鮮豔的頭巾，帶著兩三歲的小女孩一起搭車，小女孩沒有包頭巾，露出可愛的棕色捲髮。
土耳其的男人們的穿著則是相當現代，就像在其他國家的男人那樣，短袖長褲，少數男人才會穿著傳統的長袍，相比之下，同為回教國家的Morocco在衣著上更為傳統，走在Marakkesh這種觀光大城，也會看見許多穿著長袍的男人們走來走去。
這種城市的感覺，使我想起Morocco的Casablanca。
Istanbul分為亞洲區和歐洲區，在Eminönü港口，可以搭船遊河，觀賞河兩岸的不同風景。 Istanbul有世界上相當古老的清真寺。那些壯麗的清真寺，美的令人難忘，因為回教中不可以立神像，因此他們將字的藝術大大發揮，清真寺內有許多引自可蘭經內文的句子，用在建築中，令人感受到回教徒對於阿拉的虔誠信仰。
我的土耳其朋友ｓ告訴我，其實Istanbul的清真寺都是在鄂圖曼土耳其帝國時才建立的，在這之前，回教徒只要有個安靜而乾淨的地方，知道麥加的方向和祈禱的時間，就可以進行每日的祈禱。在土耳其幾百個不同的清真寺，有的壯麗，有的簡約，其實都是相同的功能。
來到伊斯坦堡，一定要做的事情之一，就是戴上頭巾，進去參觀這些古老而神聖的清真寺，坐在美麗柔軟的地毯上，看著信徒們行禮敬拜阿拉：唯一的真神。外頭的光線透進來，照在行禮中的男人身上，他的小孩，天真無邪的在祈禱區跑來跑去，花型狀的燈泡從天而降，一層一層的發著光，相當華麗。
除了在清真寺內感受伊斯蘭的宗教文化之美外，我最喜歡做的事情，就是在路上閒晃到肚子有點餓時，和當地人一樣，坐在清真寺外的長椅，向麵包攤販買個芝麻麵包，再向路過的賣茶人，買杯熱騰騰的紅茶，然後要兩顆糖，丟進杯中輕輕攪拌，發出叮噹的清脆聲，然後，吹著微風啜飲著。
我坐在包著頭巾的女人們中間，和她們一同看著擦皮鞋的小販經過，手裡拿著一大串珠鍊的男人，嘴裡唸唸有詞地問有沒有人要買，瘦小的孩童仰著髒髒的臉龐沿街討錢，我靜靜看著一切，在腦中建構出我自己的伊斯坦堡，要不是路過的土耳其男人們，對我投以奇怪的關注眼光，我都要感覺我是在地人了。
土耳其的清真寺，好像台灣的廟宇那樣，具有多元功能。除了是讓信徒能專心祈禱的地方，也具備了民眾社交和購物的功能，因此在清真寺外會有許多市集和攤販，就像是台灣的廟口夜市那樣。（有些也具備教育功能）
中午時分，喚禱聲響起，站在街頭的我，四處張望，我在等待著巧遇著誰，張開小地毯，朝向麥加的方向祈禱，就像我在摩洛哥看到的那樣，可是，伊斯坦堡依舊那麼忙碌，車子來來往往，吵雜聲未歇，行人或商人依舊忙碌在自己的工作中。
回教徒真的每日要拜五次嗎？ 這個疑問當我第一次造訪回教國家時，就一直縈繞心中。而隨著我認識越多回教徒後，我才明白其實每個宗教都一樣，有人虔誠，有人還好。就像不是每個基督徒都常常上教堂，不是每個道教徒都知道何時該拜拜。在清真寺工作的志工告訴我，因為現代的工作型態，人們可以延遲祈禱的時間；我的朋友ｓ則告訴我，回教徒們可以用自己的方式去信仰自己的宗教。也因此，我會看見許多不同行為的回教徒，像是有的戴頭巾，有的選擇不戴，有的只戴頭巾，有的則是整個包起來，只露出眼睛和手。
這些彈性空間和寬容，使我修正了過往的刻板印象，一個新的回教文化漸漸在我腦中生成。
公園裡的晚餐
因為服用過敏的藥，所以遵從藥師的叮嚀，初來Istanbul的第一個星期，我必須飲食清淡，禁鹽糖蛋奶肉和柑橘類水果，因此滿街的土耳其美食，我只能看不能吃。
晚上時肚子餓壞了，忍不住去Eminönü旁的小販，買了水煮玉米坐在公園吃，也點了一杯熱茶。在歐洲吃慣了冷食，來到較東邊的土耳其，又開始出現熱食，頓時覺得燙口難以下嚥，只好笨拙地以指尖小心翼翼舉著紅茶杯，試圖吹涼。
坐在我旁邊的兩位大叔，好奇地看著我這個行為有點窮困的亞洲觀光客，便向我搭話聊了起來。原來他們是從Syria逃到土耳其的難民，因為要逃離戰爭，舉家遷移到伊斯坦堡，在這裡等戰爭結束再重返家鄉。
我們以簡單的英文有一搭沒一搭地聊著，大部分的時候，只是雞同鴨講。這個時刻，我突然覺得，要是我會說一點阿拉伯語的話該有多好呀...我拿出包包僅有的乾糧，請他們配茶吃，他們一開始客氣地拒絕了，但後來卻開心地吃起來，我們三人就這樣望著人潮洶湧的港口，看著接駁船載走舊人又帶來新人，而安靜的我們，像是在等待著不知道什麼會來臨的事物那樣。
關於戰爭和難民這些事情，在我後來的土耳其旅程中，一直不斷地出現在我腦海裡，這是我第一次感到和這塊異國土地的連結性。
（待續）
September 3 rd .2014
It was the day that I left Europe and went to Turkey after almost one year trip in Europe.I took the flight from Athens to Istanbul. And I found many backpackers choose the similar route like me. Because I met the same travelers when I stayed at the hostel in Santorini ,Athens and even Turkey. And I felt so happy to meet these friends again and again.
But when I just arrived at SAW airport in Istanbul, I found my suitcase was destroyed during the transport. This situation made me depressed for a while. However, I knew everything could happen during the backpacker adventure, no matter bad things or good things. As a result, I decided to take it easy and try my best to bring the worn suitcase to the hostel.
tall buildings and great mansions vs. old mosques
Before I visited Istanbul,in my imagination it is the very historic city. However, it is much modern than I think.
There are very international airports, lots of tall buildings and great mansions, convenient traffic and so on. In fact, it looks so similar like the Asian modern cities. But it also keeps the very historic part, such as the mosques, palace,and the way people live. For example, the costume. I saw many Turkish ladies wearing the long skirt and burka , and the men wears the tradition long clothes. But compared to Marrakesh in Morocco, most people in Istanbul wear in more modern way like the west.
Istanbul is a beautiful city that combines the old historic part and the modern part. And from Eminönü, tourists can join the ferry tour to see the both different parts of Istanbul.
One thing you must do in Istanbul is to visit the mosques here.
It is because there are very old mosques here, like Blue mosque. Visitors can wear burka, and sit in the beautiful and soft carpet watching people practice their religion.They use lots of Arabic writing to decorate inside without any idol. And the gorgeous light shaped like the flower hang on from the very high ceiling.
For me, the mosques in Istanbul are the great art.
The second thing I like to do in Istanbul is to take a rest like the local.
I like sitting on the bench in front of the mosque when I feel tired.
I will buy an ekmek (bread) from the vendors and one Çay (black tea) with two sugars from the tea sellers, and then enjoy my Turkish tea time.
I sat surrounded with women who wear burka. We observed the street together,such as the little beggars on the street, the jewelry sellers, and the men who ask if someone want to refresh their shoes.Sometimes I feel like the local if the men did not look at me in a strange sight.:P
Like the temple in Taiwan, mosques are not only the place for praying, but also for socializing and shopping.As a result, there are markets and vendors outside the mosques just like the night markets outside the temple.
The third thing is about the sound for reminding people it is the time for worship. At the beginning ,every time I heard that sound, I will stand on the street to search for if people is going to pray. I imagined that they open their carpet, and face to the direction of Mecca to pray. But in the end, I found people still live their lives. Sellers worked in their shops. Drivers sat on their cars. Istanbul did not became a quiet city, but still full of lots of noise.
Do the Muslim have to pray for 5 times a day? I started to be confused about this idea. However, after I met more Turkish friends, they shared with me about their lives, Muslim religion, and Turkish culture. Those information broke my stereotype I had before. And make me realize this city in a new way.
Dinner in the park
I was sick of allergic when I just arrived in Turkey. So I had to avoid sugar, salt, meat, milk, and so on. As a result, I almost ate nothing at that time. One night, I feel starved, so I went to the park to buy a corn and tea from the vendors. Two old men in the park started to talk to me. They are from Syria. Because of the war, they decided to escape from their home to the nearby country. They want to go back, but they have to wait for the end of the war.
I can not speak Arabic, so we communicated each other in simple English. Most of time, I can not understand what they said, just tried to guess. It was the first time that I felt the war is so close to me. Before I visited in Turkey, the words like war and refugees are distant concept for me. However, it turned to so true after the conversation with those people I met there.
I sat in the park with them. We looked at the ferry come and go to the Eminönü port together. Sometimes we talked, sometimes we just stayed quiet.
And it seems like we are waiting for the unknown future.
(to be continued...)
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